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The Art of Being
From: Maco Magazine
By: Darren Farfan

There's a spectacular villa in Tobago where the outside environment spills into the interior. It's a masterpiece of modern design from the late Trinidadian architect Roger Turton.

Darren Farfan tells us about his visit to Being…….

"This is where it begins!" announced our host as we entered the grounds of the Secret Mountain Estate in Tobago.

The uphill drive through the rainforest of Arnos Vale had been like a journey through an ancient valley, full of rivers, trees and flowers; a place where light and shade engage in a timeless dance. And now the blazing sun welcomed us to the entrance of a villa called Being.

The dreaming of Being began in 1989 when Trinidadian travel and tourism consultant Auliana Poon and her mother, Veronica, became enthralled with the landscape and view, and sought that piece of land. It took 10 years before it actually became Being, but during that time, Poon and her husband, Christian, befriended Trinidadian architect, Roger Turton. He suggested they build "something small" on the property while they allowed themselves to become familiar with the land and the people. So the couple built a small wooden house; they started an organic garden and set about becoming part of the local community. (When construction eventually began, they demonstrated their commitment to local development by hiring neighbours to build the intricate steel works.)

The villa, one of whose main extraordinary gestures is a saltwater swimming pool built on 40-foot steel stilts, remains one of the most remarkable in the Caribbean. Tragically, just months before completion, Roger Turton passed away. His cousin, Gary Turton, also a talented architect, inherited Turton's architectural practice, and took on the responsibility of completing Being.

Built near the cliff boundary of the Secret Mountain Estate overlooking the Caribbean Sea, Being seems suspended among the treetops, overlooking a primordial scene of dense vegetation. With its radical design and surreal setting, it is a place where one can suspend disbelief and find release.

Once inside the gates, one is drawn to the bright colours of the front building and the manner in which it adds to the drama of the surroundings. Set high above the tall glass-paned doors, the roof design of the living room calls to mind the Dutch colonial architecture of islands like Curacao.

Inside, the vaulted ceiling frames the room just as the windows frame the powerful views outside. It is an elegant and calming room, where luxurious antique couches and Morris chairs complement the green marble floor. An eclectic collection of books and music on neatly ordered shelves provides a backdrop.

The deliberate and intricate style of this building brings a sense of order and comfort. But, stepping out into the main courtyard, the style changes. Supported by row of columns, the roofs of the kitchen and dining room slope towards each other, bring rainwater to a central koi pond. Sunlight bounces off the white walls, casting moving shadows that become part of the design. New and revealing angles allow for changing views and shifting perspectives.

The focus of the main courtyard and the entire house, is the "Being Structure". Like a modern-day Stonehenge, the vertical structure frames a section of the sky like an astronomical observatory. It looks like a vehicle for astral travel or a gateway to different dimensions. There may be no definite explanation, but the Being Structure suggests to me a cosmic movement, natural and miraculous, a means of channeling positive energy in and sending negative energy out.

Being's several units are joined by walkways, courtyards and patios, allowing occupants to take in the scenery, and to encourage outside living. The walkways are protected from the elements by blue canvas canopies. The cloud-like curves of the metal work and deep blue canopies float through the air like sails blown by the wind. Along the bedroom walkway, the garden comes alive with explosions of colour.

In the blue room, above the double beds, is a painting of human figures blending in an extraordinary whirl of colour and form. Somewhat like Being itself, the painting (by Trinidad's Shastri Maharaj) tells a story of modern living in terms of movements through space and time.

In his unique way, Roger Turton's design introduces techniques from modern art movements such as Cubism to inject elements of everyday reality. In the master bedroom a four-poster bed dominates the room. It is draped with soft sheer nets and an inviting white bedspread.

It's twilight now. Through a skylight, it looks as though the sun is near enough to touch the roof. Light pours through the wooden slats, the grid striating the golden beams that set the room aglow. We walk through the master bedroom, past the amazing outdoor shower and on to a cool, white-stone deck to observe the passing of the day.

The sunset gives way to darkness. Silver moonlight dances across the dark sea. The slow, steady roar of the waves pounding the shoreline begins the rhythm of the night. The caress of the Caribbean Sea breeze through the trees creates a constant music that plays to a chorus of singing birds and whistling crickets.

The playfulness of Roger Turton's design makes complete sense, in retrospect. It subtly reveals the delicate intricacies of life, then forces spectators to find their own relationships. We become part of the experience, past, future and present. As we celebrate the glorious ambiguity of this journey of life, we try to leave something behind. Here on the Secret Mountain in Tobago, Roger Turton has done just that.

Tobago remains the undiscovered jewel of the Caribbean. Its pristine beaches, waterfalls and rainforest, its proud character and rich culture make the island one of most desirable places in the world to be.

Yet, according to Being manager, Ean Mackay, "as beautiful and enticing as Tobago is, many guests choose to remain in the privacy of Being." We found out for ourselves that it is hard to leave Being and the Secret Mountain.

And there's really no need to, as guests are also treated to wonderful service and the best of Caribbean cooking. The food is pure Tobagonian "sweet hand", as good as any restaurant on the island. For dinner, we were delighted with local and international specialties such as Pumpkin Soup and Butterfly Chicken. The breakfast platter of papaw, pineapple, silk figs and Julie mango all came from the organic garden created by the Poons. The staff, Marilyn, Petra and "Engine", are friendly and gracious, always offering a warm smile. They are very much a part of Being.

"But," says Auliana Poon, "Being is not yet finished… we are always listening to our guests and to our team," and with the help of Gary Turton, "Being continues to evolve." As the sun rises over mist-shrouded mountains, the day begins to unfold, another journey begins. Once again, Being reveals its riches. Art goes on

 

 

Photograph Credits: A. Hadeed, J. Hollingsworth & Hollingsworth Studios Inc. , H. Prieto, S. Howie, A. Poon


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